Little-known Manatees of Panama

Finding Neotropical mammals is always a rewarding challenge.  There is a great diversity of mammals in Panama, over 230 species are found in this small country, in a wide variety of habitats.  It is the best place I know to see sloths, two species, in all of the Americas.  In certain places, common forest mammals such as Central American Agoutis and White-nosed Coatis are common.  Lesser Capybaras live along the banks of the mighty Chagres River, which feeds into the Panama Canal.  Panama is a wonderful place to search for mammals, but it is not as easy as it may seem.  Many Neotropical mammals by nature are nocturnal, which means spending time in the deep darkness of the forests to find them.  Certain species, like cats, are incredibly elusive.  Finding these animals requires patience and at times, may seem like a near-impossible task.  

I had heard rumors of a population of West Indian Manatees, one of Panama's rarest mammals, living in Lake Gatun.  Odd reports show up here and there, many of them are unfortunately of carcasses that float to the surface.  Manatees are fully aquatic, and live in tranquil, dark waters of shallow lakes, thus are rarely encountered.  Aerial surveys may be the best way to see these large mammals in quiet bays from above, other than that, a sighting of a manatee in Panama is a very rare occasion. 

On September 12, I guided a jungle boat tour along the Panama Canal and Lake Gatun.  We had perfect weather, and as we cruised around the waters and scanned the banks, we came across an abundance of animals - Snail Kites, American Crocodiles, Iguanas, White-headed Capuchins, Mantled Howlers, Limpkins, Proboscis Bats, and so much more.  About halfway through the tour (around 4:00 pm), as we glided in our little motor boat through the calm waters along the edges of Lake Gatun, I started to think about manatees, remembering that there are occasional sightings.  Not even two minutes later, we saw the large, rounded back emerge above the water surface, followed by the unique, round tail of a manatee.  We couldn't believe our eyes... a manatee!  Only metres from our boat!  We all saw it in great view.  Its true, they do exist in the dark waters of Lake Gatun.  Among many great wildlife sighting moments I have had, this is one of the most memorable.

The calm waters of Lake Gatun

So, what are manatees doing in the Panama Canal?  Information about the populations of manatees in Panama is not well-known, and there have been very little studies done to learn about their existence here.  In 1964, nine West Indian Manatees from Bocas del Toro and one Amazonian Manatee from Peru were introduced into Lake Gatun by the former Panama Canal Commission as a part of an aquatic vegetation control program.  The program was abandoned a few years later, and the manatees were left to live in the lake.  It is difficult to say how many manatees are here, but its not many; a study in 1980 estimated approximately 25 individuals, and a more recent study in 2008 resulted in 16 individuals seen in an aerial survey, this being the highest number ever recorded in Lake Gatun.  However, calves were seen so this population, although small, seems to be sustaining itself.  Hopefully the manatees of Panama will continue to live and reproduce in the waters of Lake Gatun. 

~ Jenn 

Agoutis & Avocados

One of the many glorious things about living in Gamboa is the fruiting tropical trees.  In any given garden in Gamboa, you may find papaya, mango, pineapple, coconut, maranon (cashew trees), avocados and more.  Avocados are my favourite, and in June, the heavy fruits fall from the trees in mass quantities.  There is one catch though, you must beat the agoutis to them.  

Central American Agouti, Dasyprocta punctata

Agoutis are (normally) rather shy members of the rodent family, and several species are found throughout Central and South America.  In other places I have been such as Peru and Ecuador, they are seldomly seen, quietly moving across the forest floor and eating seeds and fruits they seek out.  They resemble a small Capybaras, with a rounded snout, short ears, short tail and thin peg-like legs.  But here in Gamboa and central Panama, agoutis are very common and remind me more of our neighbourhood squirrels back at home in Canada.  They graze in the gardens and sports fields.  They chase each other around obstacle courses of trees and street signs.  The sit on their haunches in the middle of the streets and eat fruits.  They are quite the sight.  They also are very good at seeking out fallen avocados.  

So these days, as the avocados are dropping daily from the trees in my backyard, I am keeping a close ear open.  As soon as I hear one fall, I must get to it before the agoutis do.  If I'm tied up with something and can't make it out there right away, I will lose my chance.  By the time I get out there, it may already be partially eaten by the cheeky agoutis!  

~ Jenn 

Tamandua!

This morning I woke early to go for a walk and do some birding towards Pipeline Road.  There was a flurry of bird activity around the entrance to Pipeline Road, including Golden-collared Manakins in full display, Black-bellied Wren, Black-tailed Flycatcher, Plain Xenops, Dusky Antbird, Rufous Motmot, Chestnut-mandibled Toucan, Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher and so much more.  I met with a tour group staying at the Canopy Tower and they offered to show me where the Mottled Owls have been seen along the road.  On our way, we spotted a Northern Tamandua!  

The Northern Tamandua, Tamandua mexicana (and its closely related cousin to the south, the Southern Tamandua of the Amazon) is an arboreal rainforest mammal, spending much of its time in the trees.  They are highly specialized to feed on ants and termites, with a long snout and tongue to reach into ant and termite nests, very powerful front claws to break into nests and a long, prehensile tail.  It is mainly nocturnal but can be occasionally seen active during the day.  This is my second sighting of a Tamandua since I've been here, last week I found one waddling across Pipeline Road!  Anteaters are one of my most favourite mammals, so this little guy made my day! 

Northern Tamandua (Tamandua mexicana), Pipeline Road

~ Jenn

More highlights from Honduras

In addition to birding around the lodge grounds at The Lodge at Pico Bonito, we visited some other places in Honduras that are great birding and wildlife watching locations: 

Rio Santiago

James at The Lodge at Pico Bonito told us about this great place not far from the lodge.  This is a new place that offers cabins and a restaurant, and is about ready to open to the public.  Its a beautiful property that extends through various elevations and forests and has some nice trails.  Here we found our Keel-billed Motmot and Rufous-tailed Jacamar, as well as Blue-crowned Motmot, White-collared Manakin, Spot-breasted Wren, White-breasted Wood-Wren, Rufous Mourner, Long-billed Gnatwren, Great Tinamou, Olive-backed Euphonia, Golden-crowned Warbler, Red-crowned Ant-Tanager, Passerini's Tanager, Chestnut-headed Oropendola, Black-faced Grosbeak & Worm-eating Warbler.  The owner (who is Canadian) has also manufactured over 100 hummingbird feeders that attract huge numbers of Violet-crowned Woodnymphs, Rufous-tailed Hummingbirds, White-necked Jacobins, Violet Sabrewings, Long-billed Hermits, and even a Band-tailed Barbthroat.

Keel-billed Motmot, Electron carinatum

Cuero y Salado Wildlife Refuge

This wildlife refuge sits along the Caribbean coast and is a matrix of rivers and waterways that supports extensive mangrove ecosystems.  To get here, we took a narrow-gauge rail train from the town of La Union for 9 km into the refuge, and then hopped into a motorboat to head out into the rivers.  From here we spotted an abundance of waterbird life, including several species of herons, anhingas, kingfishers, some raptors including Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture and Bat Falcon, and Sungrebes!  A very enjoyable afternoon.  

Mantled Howler, Alouatta palliata

Rio Aguan Honduran Emerald Preserve

Honduras has one endemic species of bird - the critically endangered Honduran Emerald hummingbird.  The preserve is located directly south of Pico Bonito National Park and is a dry forest habitat.  Our day started out very early (4:00 am!) but it was well worth it.  Once we got to the preserve a short walk into the protected area turned up several Honduran Emeralds, which feed on the tiny cactus flowers in the area.  Other highlights included Lesser Nighthawk, Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl, Brown-crested Flycatcher and Turquoise-browed Motmot in the preserve, and Altamira Oriole, Painted Bunting, White-fronted Parrot and a very cute pair of White-lored Gnatcatchers en route to the preserve.  Well worth the long trip!

Honduran Emerald, Amazilia luciae

Lancetilla Botanical Gardens

One of the largest botanical gardens in Central America, Lancetilla Botanical Gardens is a nice greenspace in north central Honduras.  We started out walking this short trail off to the right just past the entrance into the gardens, which was abundant with bird life.  Raptors were a common sight overhead, including Short-tailed Hawk, Gray Hawk, Roadside Hawk, Common Black-Hawk, Cooper's Hawk, and in the forest we spotted a Laughing Falcon and Black Hawk-Eagle.  We had a quick glimpse of a Ruddy Crake as it darted across the path.  Other highlights included Yellow-bellied Tyrannulet, Black-headed Trogon, Smoky-brown Woodpecker and Yellow-winged Tanager.  

Keel-billed Toucan, Ramphastos sulfuratus

We got a nice taste of Honduras and its wildlife during our time there.  I already look forward to going back, visiting the areas we have been to again and exploring new areas - Copan Mayan ruins and the cloud forests in western Honduras, as well as the islands.  Check out Natura Tours for information on tours to Honduras and other destinations!

~ Jenn